The "Go" Gene

Atlanta - Pho#1

2009-09-13T15:15:00.004-04:00

If you've never tried Pho -- both the restaurant and the dish -- you've got to visit Pho #1 at 4051 Buford Highway in Atlanta. It's consistently rated as one of the best restaurants in a town loaded with Asian cuisine. Pho #1 is my kind of place. Unpretentious. Efficient service. Not much in the way of ambiance (unless you like the Vietnamese singers on the big-screen TV). But wonderful food.

My favorite dish there is Bun, a salad with rice noodles and a stir-fried topping, but this week the remnants of a head cold called for chicken soup (pho).

I ordered the medium sized bowl with all white meat chicken (#25 on the menu). Fresh basil and cilantro, bean sprouts, slices of jalepeno pepper, and lime came on a separate dish to add to the soup as I wished. The soup itself is simple -- a rich chicken broth with a generous mound of rice noodles, slices of chicken breast, some green onions floating on top. It was just the thing for this stuffy head.

Other sizes of soup are also available. It's $4.50 for a small bowl, $5.25 for the medium bowl, and $5.95 for the extra-large bowl. Incredible price for a meal out, and wonderful fresh quality.

August -- a great time to visit the South

2009-08-12T11:15:00.004-04:00

Yes, August is hot and humid here in the South -- but so are June and July.

What sets August apart is that many of our Southern schools start up again in August. So tourist destinations, especially those that appeal to kids, have smaller crowds.

Now is a great time to catch a last-minute vacation to the beach, to the mountains, or to a Southern city like Atlanta. You'll find fewer lines and better deals. Just bring along a jacket -- to wear in overly-air-conditioned shops, theaters, and restaurants.

Ireland -- tips

2009-06-23T22:37:00.001-04:00

We've been home a few days, getting through the mail and over jet lag. I may post more about the trip later, but I wanted to make sure I got these tips online.

Shopping:

Europeans in general are more conscious about the environment than we Americans are. Take your own bags when grocery shopping, or be prepared to pay 30 cents or more per bag

We found restaurants prohibitively expensive in Ireland, so we had picnics a lot. But most grocery stores don't carry plastic cutlery. When we finally found a deli counter, they charged about 20 cents for a flimsy fork and knife (no spoon). Next time we'll take the plastic cutlery from the airplane meal on the flight over.

Recycling is much more extensive than here. Even food packaging is recycled. Try to fit in and recycle while you're there.

You'll need a Euro coin to disengage the shopping cart for your use. When you return it, you'll get your Euro back.

Clothing:

Be prepared for cold, rainy weather anywhere in Europe (except maybe the most southern countries) anytime of year. Most of our time in Ireland I was comfortable in a long-sleeved shirt and polarfleece jacket (in June). On rainy days I added an undershirt and a hooded windbreaker. On really sunny days I could pare back to a tank shirt and capris. To us Atlantans, it felt like winter weather.

This trip I had two pair of cotton pants (both black) and a pair of denim capris. With an assortment of shirts, I could layer up or down as needed. For shoes I had my athletic shoes and a sturdy pair of sandals. I could fit all my clothes (with room for souvenirs) into one carry-on bag. Pants can go several wearings without being washed. Take shirts you can wash in the sink if needed. (Shampoo works fine for this.)

Be prepared to walk. If the shoes hurt after a couple of blocks, leave them at home. And know that cobblestones and high heels are not a good mix.

I have never needed a skirt in Europe. Nice pants will do for most occasions. I wore black pants, a sweater, and a scarf to Ireland's National Concert Hall. Others were dressed better, but my outfit was not out of place.

Odds and ends:

You can buy most anything you need in Ireland -- moisturizer, shampoo, contact solution, band-aids. The only thing that might be hard to get are non-prescription medicines. I didn't have to get anything in Ireland, but I know from our time in Germany that simple medicines like Tylenol may be by prescription only. So pack a few of whatever non-prescription meds you might need, especially Pepto Bismol chewables. They work for a host of tummy troubles.

Advice:

Courtesy and a smile go a long way. The Irish were very kind to us -- helping us buy tram tickets, lending us a cell phone when we needed taxis on a rainy night, giving us directions when we were lost. In Ireland it seemed like everyone we met had either traveled in the US, or had relatives here or in Canada. Makes us all seem like family.

Sláinte!

(Cheers in Irish)

Dublin streets

2009-06-16T15:15:00.003-04:00

Grafton street is said to be the busiest shopping street in the world. It's pedestrians only, and buskers perform at every opportunity. We spent an hour over tea and scones at an upstairs window in Bewley's Oriental Cafe today watching a man dressed as a James Joyce statue. He looked so much like a real statue that people would pass him by until he suddenly tapped them on the shoulder with his cane, startling them.

Yesterday while shopping, my daughter and I heard faux-Beatles, Irish folksingers, and earnest young men belting out songs.

It's not a scene you get in the States.

The photo above isn't from Grafton Street, but from the nearby area known as Temple Bar. The pubs have inventive names. Hairy Lemon is my favorite so far!

Fish and Chips

2009-06-16T15:09:00.003-04:00

As I bemoaned earlier, the weak dollar and capital-city-prices conspire to make restaurant dining in Dublin expensive. Here's a lunch photo of fish and chips at Cafe Bleu. It was 15 Euro (about $20). But it tasted great! If you were dining out in Atlanta, $20 would get you salad, wine, and dessert as well as the entree for that price!

Bloomsday

2009-06-16T14:58:00.005-04:00

All day I've been pretending I've read Ulysses by James Joyce. A Dublin native, Joyce set his novel Ulysses on June 16th and (apparently) it follows a man around the area for the day. It broke the traditional story mold by telling of the day in a stream-of-consciousness manner that results in very very very long sentences which meander from thought to thought, like what he might have for lunch, and how that woman reminds him of someone else, and there goes a dog, and wouldn't it be great to have a gorgonzola sandwich, and how the clouds look, and such stuff.

So today, being June 16th, it's Bloomsday in Dublin. We heard readings from Ulysses in both Spanish and English. An opera singer sang something based on the novel. People were wandering around dressed in costume, and Dixieland bands were playing in some of the squares.

Sigh. I guess I have to read Ulysses now.

Clonmacnoise -- Ireland

2009-06-15T17:53:00.007-04:00

Clonmacnoise was a great center of learning and spirituality in central Ireland, along the River Shannon. It was founded around 545 AD, and even though it's isolated today, at the time the Shannon was one of the great travel routes in Ireland. Despite the 62-foot-high round tower (seen in back of the chapel ruins) that was used for observation and defense, this site was plundered by the Vikings, the Anglo-Normans, and, finally, by the English in 1552.

(Note the people in the photo. They give a size perspective on the round tower, and the flat grave slabs give size perspective on the Celtic crosses. These medieval people knew how to build big!)

Connemara -- where "The Quiet Man" was filmed

2009-06-15T17:44:00.003-04:00

Here's one for all you old movie buffs out there. John Ford filmed "The Quiet Man" with John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara (who was born in Dublin) in a small village, Cong, in the Connemara area of Ireland. Here's a bridge that featured in the movie. (I can't remember exactly where. I'll have to watch the movie again when I get home.)

Connemara is gorgeous -- a combination of Montana's open skies with a mix of Alpine and Mediterranean plants, dotted with crystal-clear lakes, studded with castles and other stony ruins, and full of sheep. (Not killer sheep as my kids would have you believe!)

Best photo I've ever taken -- Galway, Ireland

2009-06-15T17:32:00.003-04:00

Summer days are long in Galway, on the western coast of Ireland. The sky got light about 4 a.m. and finally darkened about 11 p.m. This photo was taken with my wide-angle lens, on a digital Canon Rebel XT body, about 9 p.m. I love how the wide-angle lens curves everything slightly, as if we're on the edge of the world. I guess from Galway's river/bay area into the wild North Atlantic, it was the edge of the world for thousands of years.

Dublin and the eastern part of Ireland are great, but my next trip here will concentrate on the western side of Ireland, particularly from Galway north into Connemara.

Dublin day

2009-06-11T04:55:00.002-04:00

The National Museum is small (compared to other national museums, like the Smithsonian), but terrific (and free!). Celtic, Viking, Medieval objects dominate, including a Viking longboat. The best -- and most nightmare-producing -- were the bog people. About 3000 years ago it seems certain men (possibly kings) were treated, well, like kings, for a few months (including a hair pomade from France) then killed and their bodies put into bogs at the boundary lines between tribes. The bogs haven't got enough oxygen to support the microbes that decay things, so some of these bodies have been found. They look like flattened brown-leather people, but in at least one case, the face is still recognizable with its red hair and red stubble on the chin. Bog people have also been found in other northern European countries. Very eerie to look on a face that was a real live person nearly 3000 years ago.

We enjoyed a folk music concert in St. Stephen's Green, shopping (that would be my daughter's favorite), the 300-year-old Marsh Library (including cages where they locked students in so they wouldn't steal the books!). And we ended the day with the Guinness tour, including a pint in the 7th-floor bar with a 360-degree view of Dublin. Back to the house. Take-away fish and chips for dinner.

Love this house-swap!

Best free concert in Dublin

2009-06-07T16:46:00.005-04:00

We went to the Evensong service at Christ Church in Dublin today. The service was mostly sung by the fantastic choir, and the organ was incredible. My Mom used to play organ at our church back in Chattanooga, but it was nothing like this one! This organ has more than 2000 pipes, some 4 stories tall. It was music you could feel in your bones.

And, of course, the history of Christ Church is amazing. It was founded around 1030 on the former site of a Viking church. Over the years it's been both Catholic and Protestant, depending on who was ruling Ireland. Now it's Protestant, with a ritual-rich high church service. Luckily over the years it's been repaired as needed, so the interior is gorgeous. The above photo of Christ Church's interior was taken by our friend John Dallas.

Ireland -- expensive?

2009-06-07T06:40:00.002-04:00

This house swap is certainly a comfortable way to explore a new country, and it's keeping our expenses way below what they would be with hotels. Not only have we swapped houses, we've swapped cars. It took my husband about a day to master driving on the left, with the driver's seat on the right side of the car, and the gear shift operated with his left hand. (I'm not attempting to drive here!) Our Irish friend Albert was a great help, as he drove ahead, letting us follow his car as we got used to the roads.

We've used trams, a train, and taxis, too. And they're quite expensive. A tram trip into town is the equivalent of $3.10 each way (times 4 for our family). A taxi ride starts at about $8 and goes up from there. Restaurant meals are also expensive. The cheapest so far was a sandwich and Coke at Trinity College's Buttery (cafeteria), for about $7.50. A real meal starts at about $20 for lunch, $30 for dinner (again, multiply by 4).

But, surprisingly, grocery store prices are about like at home. So, again, having a house is wonderful. We're even packing peanut butter sandwiches for some lunches, saving our restaurant budget for meals we can really enjoy. Two restaurants I recommend are Cafe Bleu and Harry's Cafe, both on Dawson Street. Both offer 2-course menus with wonderful options like fish cakes and salad with "rocket" (arugula).

Still waaay out -- Dublin, Ireland - weather

2009-06-07T06:25:00.003-04:00

When we arrived in Dublin a week ago, it felt like Colorado weather -- sunny, cool, breezy. Everyone here said this was unusual. Fair-skinned Irish natives thronged into the parks to soak up the sun. By evening those fair skins were all sunburned.

Yesterday we understood this passion for the sun. The weather turned blustery and downright cold. We got soaked to the skin walking a few blocks, despite rain gear and umbrellas. Who would have thought we'd need to turn on heat in June?

Today is cloudy, but without the blasting winds. And we're totally spoiled by vacationing in a house. Having four bedrooms, several bathrooms, a stocked kitchen, and a washing machine are a whole lot better than cramming into a hotel room.

Despite the weather we visited Malahide Castle. It's supposedly the most haunted castle around, but no ghosts showed up during our tour. A family lived there 700+ years, with the last one leaving in the 1970s -- can you imagine? In America we think a 30-year house is old!

Out of the south (waaay out) - Newgrange, Ireland

2009-06-04T17:40:00.002-04:00

My family is on vacation, participating in a house-swap with a family from Dublin, Ireland. Today we visited Newgrange, just north of Dublin. An incredible place. A thousand years before the pyramids or Stonehenge, built a sacred mound/burial site/astronomical observatory here.

The stones were transported from dozens of miles away, and the central passageway has stood without collapsing (without even water getting inside!) for all these years. The stone interior is covered by huge amounts of dirt, and so it looks like a grassy, stone-edged acre-sized mound from a distance.

I entered a lottery to win a ticket to come back for the winter solstice, to see the sunrise illuminate the passageway all the way to the center of the mound. Think I'll win?

2009-05-16T09:07:00.006-04:00

If you're traveling up I-75, take a break at exit 77, Berea, Kentucky. It's been a few years since I was in Berea, but its working artists and shops are well worth a longer visit, and was thrilled to find Berea has brought its crafts under one roof at the Kentucky Artisan Center.

Local artists demonstrate their skills on Fridays and Saturdays all summer. On my visit I met wood carver Robert Beddow of Richmond, Kentucky. He taught me how to carve and dry a sweet potato into a wonderfully grotesque face. (Unfortunately those photos didn't turn out well.) But if you want to try it at home, peel the bottom 2/3 of a sweet potato, then carve out huge features – eyes, nose, mouth – kind of like an Easter Island Stone's face. Dry it in a low oven for 3 days.

Robert Beddow, along with two other wood carvers, were carving as they talked to visitors who stopped by. Not only is it a great break as you travel I-75, it's an ideal place to get tips from the demonstrators, if you're a carver, too.

Year-round at the Kentucky Artisan Center, visitors can get a meal in the café, browse the gift shop's statues (both wood and metal), baskets, pottery, jewelry, and more. And there are helpful information people if you want to explore the Berea area further.

Southern beaches

2009-05-07T20:40:00.002-04:00

The South is divided into two types of beach-goers. Those who go to the Gulf beaches, and those who go to the Atlantic beaches.

Family ties, convenience, a free place to stay -- all these play into the decision that first time. Before you know it, you're hooked. Again and again you'll go back, drawn by the salt air, the fresh breezes, and that free place to stay...

I'm a Gulf of Mexico person. Which are you?

Yummy eats in Destin

2009-03-20T20:37:00.003-04:00

Zampieri's Harbor Grille in Destin, Florida, served up a great lunch today for a large group of Destin locals (and a few visitors like me). Destin Community Center has been introducing locals to outstanding area restaurants each month, and for March the destination was Zampieri's.

Zampieri's is not a restaurant I would have tried on my own. From visting other waterfront restaurants, I wouldn't have expected the food to be very good. After all, in a tourist town, a restaurant only has to lure a customer in once -- repeat business isn't necessary as there's always a flock of new tourists.

But Zampieri's was grest. The owner seems to have a Southern-Cajun background, as the menu includes gumbo, shrimp and grits, and fried green tomatoes. The ambience is great. Large windows border the harbor, for great views from about 2/3 of the tables -- the others are on a lower, cozy level. My only complaint is the level of noise. It's a very loud restaurant.

Since I'm not much of a drinker, I didn't try any of their 14 signature martinis, but the Stress martini, Lemon Drop Martini, and Zampieri's Flaming Martini all sound interesting.

My grilled Mahi-Mahi, the Harbor Grille Salad with shaved fennel, and key lime pie were delicious. My dining companions enjoyed the steak, cooked to perfection, too. The decor is rich, but not fussy -- ideal for that special date at the beach.

"Kidding" Season

2009-03-18T11:54:00.006-04:00

On my travels for stories for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution this winter, one jewel I found is Split Creek Farm -- a goat dairy. Spring through early summer is "kidding" season (who wouldn't be drawn to that name!) when baby goats are born.

To celebrate, Split Creek Farm hosts an annual Farm Day every spring. Tours of the milking parlor, talks on the different breeds of goats, and hanging out with the animals are all featured. But best of all are sampling the goat cheeses and goat fudge!

This year it's on May 2, 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. Admission is $5 adults, $2 children 12 and under. Split Creek Farm is about 2 hours north of Atlanta, off I-85 near Anderson, SC.

If you go, don't miss the Border Collie Demonstration at 1:30. Too bad dogs aren't allowed -- my cocker spaniel could learn lots from the collies, I'm sure!

(Happy 19th to Charlotte!)

Out of the South -- without leaving home

2009-03-16T15:51:00.003-04:00

I like to keep tabs on Old Faithful geyser at Yellowstone National Park. It's kind of like an old family friend.

Last time I visited it personally was about 10 years ago, but I can "visit" whenever I want, year-round, for free via the park's live webcam.

If you want to "see" Yellowstone, too, here's the link: Old Faithful streaming video.

English Tea in South Carolina

2009-03-13T22:55:00.003-04:00

Two hours north of Atlanta, leave I-85 for a short detour to find the best scones this side of Great Britain. The Victoria: A genuine English Tea Room is in Anderson, South Carolina, housed in the historic 1888 Chiquola building.

Owners Trevor (he's the Brit) and Tracy Furlong (she tells great ghost stories about the building) serve breakfast, lunch, and afternoon tea.

The Victoria serves more than 60 distinctive tea varieties, lunch favorites like quiche or chicken salad, and a different type of scone daily (complete with clotted cream and jam.)

After indulging in a scone (or two)stroll Anderson's historic streets. Lots of buildings from Anderson's heyday as a textile center still stand. Two Gather Beads, is a must-visit boutique for bead fans. It's reputed to be the best bead store East of the Mississippi!

Chieftan's Museum/Major Ridge Home

2009-03-02T17:26:00.003-05:00

The Chieftan's Museum near Rome, Georgia, would make a great day trip from Atlanta, Chattanooga, or northern Alabama.

It was the home of Major Ridge, one of the Cherokee leaders before they were "removed" to the west along what's known today as the Trail of Tears.

Contrary to popular misconceptions, the Cherokee in North Georgia lived very much like the white settlers of the time. Today, Major Ridge's home is a National Historic Landmark. The story of Major Ridge's life is fascinating, as he was one of the signers of the controversial Treaty of New Echota, which traded Cherokee ancestral lands for land in the western territories. Consequently he was murdered/executed along with several other signers, an act which can still raise heated debate among Cherokees today.

From now through April 10th, there's a treat -- a special exhibit of Cherokee baskets. Along with a history of baskets, some 25 baskets are on loan from local basket collections. There are also baskets for sale.

Panama City Beach -- a "pearl" of a restaurant

2009-02-27T22:51:00.002-05:00

About a decade ago, my husband, father, and I were having lunch at my favorite restaurant in Panama City Beach – Montego Bay.

The men were enjoying oysters on the half shell, when suddenly my husband slurped up a pea-sized pearl.

Luckily he didn't swallow it. My dad made it into a necklace: I think of Montego Bay (and my dad) when I wear it.

I can't guarantee pearls in every oyster, but Montego Bay's daily lunch specials are hard to beat. Try the blackened fish-of-the-day, or let your inner kid enjoy popcorn shrimp.

The hushpuppies are so good we steal them off each others' plates. All entrees come with side dishes, so you can get your veggies, too.

What's our most popular national park?

2009-02-26T21:28:00.004-05:00

Hint: it's in the Southeast.

If you guessed THE GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK, you're right. With 9 million visitors a year, it gets twice the visitors of the next most popular park (The Grand Canyon).

But did you know that the Smokies were logged out before being turned over to become a national park? It's true. When the Smokies became a park in 1934, all visitors saw were stumps, except for a few isolated stands of old-growth forest. Most of those grand trees you see today are relative youngsters.

This year The Great Smoky Mountains National Park is celebrating its 75th anniversary. If you plan to go, spring is a great time to beat the crowds. And if you can only go in the summer or fall, all it takes is a short hike to get away from the crowds. Of those 9 million visitors, few venture more than a few dozen yards from the road.

Here's the official website for planning your trip: www.nps.gov/grsm

Atlanta dining

2009-02-26T12:57:00.003-05:00

It's a bit of a stretch to call THE VARSITY "dining out," but as an Atlanta tradition, everyone goes there at least once, if only to take out-of-town friends.

So why am I writing about a place where everyone goes? Because too often visitors to our fair city don't know how to order at The Varsity.

First, you can't dilly-dally around at the counter. It's a hurry-up kind of place.

Second, don't bother reading their menu. Forget the burgers and fries. What you want at The Varsity is a chili dawg (dog for you non-Georgia fans), onion rings, and an F.O.

Slaw and/or onions on your chili dog is okay. A naked dog is okay if you're under 12. But a meatless dog is not okay.

The onion rings are made of thick slices of sweet onions dipped in a thin tempura-like batter before they're fried. Yes, they're greasy, but you can really taste the sweet onion.

And the F.O. is a Frosted Orange, a drink kind of like the Creamsicle ice cream pops you may have had as a kid.

And last, but not least, forget about nutrition and enjoy the taste. You can have that salad for lunch tomorrow.

Florida on a budget

2009-02-25T15:31:00.002-05:00

There's no destination like Florida when you've got kids...and a budget. Beachcombing, swimming, sandcastles are all free of charge. Here are some ways to make the most of your vacation, without being limited to eating peanut butter sandwiches in a crummy hotel.

Condo and house rentals should be cheaper than usual in this economy. Hotels often have kitchenettes.

If a rental house is too expensive for your family alone, invite another family to join you and split the cost -- more fun for the kids, more space, and often cheaper per family than a hotel

Restaurants have early-bird specials (perfect for a family that's spent the day on the beach).

Arcades, mini golf, and indoor entertainments often have 2-for-1 deals if you come in the mornings.

Active military, senior citizens, members of AAA, AARP, and other travel-discount groups almost always get discounts at Florida attractions and lodging.

Timing helps trim costs when you're visiting Florida. If you're not tied into a school schedule, go on the off season ("On" is winter for South Florida, summer for Northern Florida and the Panhandle).

Everyone knows lunch is a less expensive meal to eat in a restaurant than dinner, but in Florida it often also saves you a long wait. Take the kids off the beach late in the morning, have a substantial lunch at a restaurant, and spend the cooler sunset hours back on the beach, with a picnic supper. Kids will be less worn-out and less sunburned!

Check local papers and tourist "freebie" papers for coupons for restaurants and attractions.

Among my mail this week was a brochure from the site www.visitflorida.com, the state's official tourism site. Midway down their home page are buttons for "Hot Deals" and "FL Vacation Auction." A recent search revealed $69 hotel rooms in Destin, golf getaway packages, discounts to attractions for Florida residents, and more.

Another site for frugal folks is www.restaurant.com. On this site you can purchase $25 gift certificates for $10, and $10 certificates for $3. A recent search found 11 participating restaurants in the Destin area, including some of Destin's finest.

And, of course, there's www.priceline.com for bidding on hotel rooms, rental cars, air travel, and packages. Be sure to check out www.biddingfortravel.com first, to get an idea of what prices are winning the bids.

Best Dim Sum in Atlanta

2009-02-24T14:58:00.003-05:00

I love everything about Dim Sum restaurants. I love the huge tables crowded with multi-generational Asian families. I love the steaming carts the waiters push around. I love the little steamer baskets, each holding 2 - 4 bite-sized dumplings.

I love the vague sense of not really knowing what you're about to eat.

I love the words "dim sum." Say it out loud. Sounds tasty, doesn't it?

In Atlanta, my favorite place for dim sum is the Oriental Pearl, 5399 New Peachtree Road, Chamblee, GA 30341. Others love the Oriental Pearl's dim sum, too, including Zagat Rated, AtlantaCuisine.com, and Atlanta Magazine. It's always crowded on weekends, but there's rarely a wait.

So, for the uninitiated, what exactly is dim sum? It's little dumplings, noodle rolls, and steamed buns, each with a different filling. Sometimes there's a cart of soups, too, and you can always order dishes off the Oriental Pearl's extensive menu. Dim sum tends to be served as brunch, from morning to mid-afternoon on Saturdays and Sundays.

This is how it works....When the waiter stops with his or her steaming cart, he/she'll open the lids to show you the contents, tell you if it's pork, chicken, shrimp, red bean, etc., and ask if you want one. Say yes, and the waiter will put the hot steamer basket on your table, and make a mark on your ticket. You grab a dumpling with your chopsticks (it doesn't taste the same if you use a fork), and plunge into trying new tastes. It's all very non-spicy cuisine, and tends to be foods children will love.

The waiters circle constantly with the carts, so the dim sum is always hot out of the kitchen. They'll offer you as many dumplings as your tummy can hold.

Our favorites are shrimp noodle, pork dumplings, and sesame buns.

Generally, the Oriental Pearl's dim sum is a reasonably-priced meal. On a visit in February, $25 worth filled two adults and one teenage boy.

So if you're in Atlanta on a Saturday or Sunday, stop by the Oriental Pearl.

Small Towns

2008-12-31T16:13:00.010-05:00

I just finished reading one of my Christmas presents -- Bill Bryson's book,The Lost Continent: Travels in Small-Town America.
Bill's humor (after traveling to 38 states with him, it feels like we're on a first-name basis) is great. My husband's not so keen on it, though, because I burst out laughing at 2 a.m. when I'm still up reading in bed.

The only disappointment in Bill's book was that he spent most of his time driving instead of actually spending time in the small towns he passed. And, although I laugh at his wicked sense of humor, I tend to look at small towns and their inhabitants with a lot more grace than Bill does.

Since I've been writing one-tank trips, focusing on destinations near Atlanta, I've visited my share of small towns lately. In the South, there seems to have been a golden age for small towns -- for the white inhabitants, that is. From about 1870 - 1920, trains brought freight and passengers to towns like Winder, GA, Meridian, MS, and Gadsden, AL.

With the trains came wealth (relatively speaking). Each small town had its own department store, housed in a multi-story building. Some built ornate theaters and opera houses. Small colleges were founded. Victorian mansions were built. It's fun to imagine living in one of these towns (again, if you were white. African-Americans had it especially hard in the South in this post-reconstruction era).

But when tractor-trailers took over from freight trains, and passengers began driving their own cars, these towns stagnated. The grand old buildings stood empty. The gorgeous mansions were sub-divided into apartments. It's only in the last decade or so that individuals and businesses are rediscovering these gems. It's heartening in this time of dark economies to see these downtowns recover their bustling lives.

So in honor of Bill Bryson, and just for fun, visit a small town in 2009. I guarantee you'll find at least one good restaurant (a lot cheaper than in Atlanta, too!). And you'll stroll sidewalks, browse in boutiques, and enjoy a slower pace of life for a few hours.

(The photo above is a detail from a building in Meridian, Mississippi. I haven't yet learned how to attach captions to photos)

The economy and travel

2008-11-24T21:48:00.004-05:00

First a confession. I had a brief fling working in a stodgy, conservative stock brokerage. They taught me the markets were logical, driven by things like PE ratios, and more secure in the long term than Grandma's girdle.

Yeah, right. In the last weeks we've all learned people who buy and sell stocks have all the emotional stability of a two-year-old in need of a nap.

It would be funny except my retirement fund (carefully chosen, stable companies, held for the long-term, highly recommended by stodgy, conservative stock brokerage) has tanked.

So what's a girl with the "go" gene to do?

Travel, of course. But with a little more care about where I spend my dollars. (Despite a common misconception, very few freelancers receive "freebies" when they travel. Once I got a free cookie, though.)

Times are tough for everyone, but especially for the mom-and-pop businesses that serve travelers.

So if you're hitting the road this holiday season, don't stop at a chain restaurant (they'll survive without your business). Instead pull off the interstate, go a couple of miles to the old center of town, and dine at the local Barbeque shack, tea room, or meat-and-three. Every small town's got one or the other.

Instead of giving your sleeping dollars to Hilton or Holiday Inn, do a quick google search before you leave and stay at a bed and breakfast. Your business won't matter so much to the mega-corporations, but it may make all the difference in the world to the small family business.

(Way) Out of the South -- Omaha, Nebraska

2008-11-04T18:11:00.003-05:00

Over the past year, I've passed through Omaha three times on the way to writers' workshops in Schuyler, Nebraska. The first time I went I wrote a story on Omaha for The Atlanta Journal-Constitution's travel section. But I found I didn't see and do all I wanted in that first short visit. So on subsequent visits I squeezed in a few hours in Omaha before driving out to Schuyler.
Here are some of the fun things to see and do. I wish we'd vacationed here when my kids were younger – it's a very family-friendly town.

Durham Western Heritage Museum
In the beautifully-restored art deco Union Station, the Durham Western Heritage Museum spans two floors. The Main Waiting Room is preserved as if you’d walked into the station during World War II. Statues depict soldiers shipping off to war, families bidding farewell, and sweethearts dreading the separation. The 1931 Soda Fountain serves a great old-fashioned banana split, too. Downstairs, historical exhibits let visitors wander through Indian dwellings, 1800s houses, and shop replicas. On the old tracks are a steam engine, Pullman car, lounge car, and caboose. Very kid-friendly.

First National’s Spirit of Nebraska’s Wilderness and Pioneer Courage Park
It's a long name for a series of statues in the middle of downtown Omaha. Beginning at 14th and Capitol Streets, larger-than-life bronze wagon trains head west. They spook a bison who runs around a corner, stampeding more bison. Around another corner, they run (through a building's edge) and startle a flock of geese which rise out of a fountain. Ultimately, some of these geese “fly” into the atrium of the First National Tower. Be sure to look at the facial expressions, both on the people and the bison. Kids will love these statues.

Henry Doorly Zoo
I could spend days exploring this zoo. Rated as one of the nation’s best zoos, the Henry Doorly Zoo is known for conservation and recreation. Lots of the exhibits are indoors, duplicating the home environment for animals from the desert, the rainforest, or other areas unlike Nebraska. Outdoor exhibits stretch across about 130 acres, with transportation by foot, tram, or steam train. Again, animal-loving-kid paradise.

Lauritzen Botanical Gardens
With walking paths, a children’s garden, a model railroad, and statues among the plants, Lauritzen Botanical Gardens is a newcomer to the Omaha scene. Visitors can stroll on their own or ride a tram to the farthest gardens.

Joslyn Art Museum
Since its founding in 1931, the Joslyn Art Museum has gathered more than 11,000 works of art. If you're traveling with kids, this museum is small enough not to become "boring" and large enough to give a sense of art throughout history. The Western collection, featuring Karl Bodmer, a Swiss artist who traveled the west in 1832-34 is especially interesting for kids who love the western cowboy and Indian themes. The museum's exterior, of pink marble from Tate, Georgia, is outstanding, too. There's a café for snacks and light meals.

Gold Coast
The Cornerstone Mansion, now a reasonably-priced B&B was the first house built in what became known as “The Gold Coast.” The Yost family built this 17-room Gothic Revival home in 1894 as a wedding gift for their daughter. Soon other wealthy families built mansions, many of which are preserved as private residences today.

Performing Arts
Teens will like Omaha's indie rock scene. It's centered on Saddle Creek Records, which was founded when childhood friends released cassette tapes of 13-year-old musician Conor Oberst (who still calls Omaha home). The label pioneered “The Omaha Sound”, but in recent years has added more eclectic musicians to its list of recording artists.
With the opening of Slowdown, Saddle Creek’s own rock club/bar, the indie music scene has a dedicated performance venue in North Downtown Omaha. Classic and independent cinema has a new home at Film Streams in the North Downtown area, too.
In addition to the indie scene, the Holland Performing Arts Center, along with the Orpheum Theater, offer a busy schedule of Broadway plays, touring musicians, dancers, actors, and the Omaha Symphony.

Old Market

For shopping, restaurants, and street musicians, the Old Market District is the place to go. Brick streets and buildings hark back to Omaha’s bustling days when groceries and goods arrived by steam boat or train. Fading painted-on ads still adorn many of the brick warehouse walls.
With more than two dozen restaurants, pubs, and coffee houses in Old Market, there’s something for every taste. Although Omaha’s steaks are renown, immigrants have left their mark, too, with Italian, Irish, and Mexican restaurants.

Gene Leahy Mall

Next to Old Market is Gene Leahy Mall – a park with a lagoon and waterfalls, a walking trail, playground, and a huge slide. It's fun for adults and kids alike.

Lewis & Clark/ Riverfront

Lewis and Clark passed through here on their epic journey in 1804-06. The Lewis & Clark Visitor Centers Headquarters, alongside the Missouri River in Omaha, is a great place to learn more about the explorers. Or a place for the kids to learn history disguised as fun.
Park in the Lewis and Clark Visitors Center lot and walk across the newly-completed Bob Kerrey Pedestrian bridge to Council Bluffs, Iowa. Your kids (or you!) can pretend to be scouts for Lewis & Clark, exploring both sides of the river

Out of the South -- Oxford, Ohio

2008-09-18T20:27:00.006-04:00

Even though my website is dedicated to travel in the Southeastern United States, occasionally I venture out into the wider world. When this happens, instead of creating a Sweet-Tea-Travels page, I'll put the travel information on my blog. So here's the most recent foray out of the South:

Oxford, Ohio

What? Never heard of it? Well, then you're not a college football fan, are you?

Actually, I'm not much of a college football fan either. Oxford, Ohio, is home to Miami University (Miami was a university before Florida was a state!). Founded in 1809, carved out of the frontier at a time when our nation prized education, Miami will celebrate its bicentennial next year. But I went to Oxford for another reason -- an almost 100-years-old reason.

In our family is a wonderful, crumbling scrapbook from my husband's grandmother, Lucile Dvorak Kirk. As a young woman, she spent one year away at college, at Miami University. For all of her life, she said it was her favorite year.

I've written a travel piece on searching for traces of Lucile's era in modern-day Oxford and at modern-day Miami. Surprisingly, both the university and the town have preserved much of their heritage both in buildings and traditions. Look for the story in The Atlanta Journal-Constitution this fall.

If you go to Oxford, be sure to dine at the Kona Bistro, followed by espresso at Kofenya.

Be careful who you kiss under the old lantern on campus-- if you kiss there, you're bound to marry. And don't step on the university seal on the sidewalk at the center of Miami -- legend has it you'll fail your next exam. No matter how long you've been out of school, you don't want to risk that!

Time keeps on slippin' into the future...

2008-09-18T20:27:00.003-04:00

I can't believe more than a month has gone by since my last post. Alas, even travel writers have to do everyday things once in a while. For me this meant getting my firstborn off to college, and my lastborn started in high school.

Somehow writing always takes second place to whatever my kids need.

But now we're on a schedule again. Life is settling into its new shape, with only one teenager at home. I'll be traveling a lot in October -- to Birmingham and Nebraska for writers' conferences, and to Winder, Georgia, for a camping weekend.

Here are my upcoming stories in The Atlanta Journal-Constitution:

Skiing at the Cataloochee Ski Resort, Maggie Valley, North Carolina. This is the closest ski slope to Atlanta, and since they make snow, they open as early as November. And if you're wondering, no, I don't ski, although my daughter learned to ski there. My knees threatened to mutiny if I strapped on skis. I ran around and played reporter instead.

Searching for traces of Lucile Dvorak, Oxford, Ohio, 1917 - 1918. This is slotted for the AJC's heritage/history travel section. It's a story of my journey as I dove into my husband's grandmother's scrapbook of her favorite year -- the one year she went away to college at Miami University.

If you missed the story on food and wine in Southeast Tennessee, here's a link to the AJC's online version.

More on Lucile Dvorak's favorite year in my next post...

Tally

2008-08-04T13:12:00.001-04:00

First month of www.Sweet-Tea-Travels.com = 48 articles written, revised, and posted, all on travel in the Southeast. Now if only visitors would come and read them....

Food, wine, and tourism on Tennessee Backroads

2008-08-02T21:54:00.002-04:00

I've just completed a series on www.Sweet-Tea-Travels.com about the small towns along US-411 and US-11 in Southeast Tennessee. A companion story on wineries and agri-tourism is slated to run in The Atlanta Journal-Constitution on August 17th.

It's well worth a detour off I-75 to see places like Niota, Tennessee, whose young state legislator cast the deciding vote to pass the 19th Amendment giving women the right to vote.

Or to drive through the valley between Cleveland and Charleston, Tennessee, where thousands of Cherokees were interned throughout the hot summer of 1838.

Or to pop in the McKee Baking Company outlet in Collegedale to stock up on Little Debbie Snack Cakes.

Or to participate in the great grape stomp, held every fall at Savannah Oaks Winery in Delano. (That's the one I don't want to miss!)

10 Cool Pools

2008-07-05T18:26:00.003-04:00

My story, "Ten Cool Pools" will be in tomorrow's Atlanta Journal-Constitution. I got advance copies in the mail today. It looks good, especially the professional photos the resorts allowed me to use.

It turns out having a waterpark, lazy river pool, or gigantic waterslide is a trend in hotels that want to attract families.

Although a hotel like the Great Wolf Lodge (Williamsburg, Virginia, and a future location near Atlanta) may look expensive at first, once you factor in what it would cost to take the kids to a waterpark for 1 - 2 days, it's quite a deal!

The cool pools seem to concentrate in tourist destinations like Orlando or along the beaches, and with summer travel slumping this year, they may be offering better deals than the economy hotels.

New Site Format complete

2008-07-05T00:03:00.002-04:00

Hooray! I've successfully switched my site over to the new format, and added a few more pages to boot.
Total number of pages = 18.

I'm including some "sidebar" as a separate page for nearly every city. That's always the part of printed guidebooks that draws my attention.

For Destin, there's a box to click on the Parks of the Emerald Coast.

For Birmingham, it's the city's Civil Rights sites.

For Chattanooga, it's the Cherokee sites.

For Meridian, it's ghost stories of Meridian.

So when you browse around www.Sweet-Tea-Travels.com, look for these. Hopefully you'll find them as interesting to read as I did to write.

Website page tally

2008-07-02T17:19:00.002-04:00

Hot off the press at www.sweet-tea-travels.com
Birmingham, Alabama
Birmingham's Civil Rights Sites
Huntsville

Total number of pages in good working order: 11

Hooray!

Site Construction

2008-07-02T11:28:00.003-04:00

Now I know I'm crazy.

Most people undertake a travel guide website like www.sweet-tea-travels.com with a staff and large budget. I have me, myself, and I... and the cocker spaniel at my feet.

I've spent the last 2 weeks as if cramming for a test, learning all I can about FrontPage and writing for the web and keywords and google ads and all that goes along with putting up a website.

Hugely time consuming. I spent a good 10 hours at the computer yesterday trying to get the site into its final form.

FrontPage's help is no help, but luckily a blogger out there (http://www.erikvossman.com/) can speak real language for non-programmers. (Thanks, Erik!)

So after 10 hours yesterday, I've got my home, about us, blog, and the state pages up. but somehow the about us button isn't showing right....

Sigh
There's always something to fix.

Sweet Tea Travels: An online guidebook to the South

2008-06-30T22:02:00.001-04:00

I'm making progress on www.Sweet-tea-travels.com

But like many construction sites, it'll get messy before it's going to look like there's progress. Visit when you have time

Hometown Roswell, Georgia

2008-06-30T21:57:00.002-04:00

My hometown, Roswell, is a suburb of Atlanta, but when I moved here 22 (!) years ago it was a small Southern town, complete with a gazebo-crowned square and haunted buildings.

As it’s grown to something like 85,000 inhabitants, it’s kept the old square and even the ghosts.

In the 80s, the old part of town was largely vacant, but now there are antique shops, art galleries, restaurants, and boutiques to browse, mostly along Canton Street, north of the square.

The Fickle Pickle is one of my favorite lunch spots. It’s in a renovated house, at 1085 Canton Street. Its specialty is fried pickles, but the green tomato sandwich is great, too.

Heaven Blue Rose art gallery features ever-changing exhibits by local artists.

Go With the Flow offers everything you need for canoeing or kayaking on nearby Chattahoochee River. One of these days I’m going to rent a kayak and spend a peaceful day meandering through the shallows of the river along the Chattahoochee Nature Center.

For cyclists, bike paths and trails abound. The mayor even leads a ride every Thursday afternoon.

The Chattahoochee, north of Highway 400, was rated a few years ago as one of the top fly-fishing rivers in the Southeast. (That’s another thing I’ve got to try one day.)

Time Travel

2008-06-30T21:52:00.003-04:00

In an episode of “The Twilight Zone” a car is driving through the dark and somehow passes into the past. I always feel that way when we’re driving to the beach.

We hustle to leave home and get on the road — to “beat” the traffic. (If you live in Atlanta you know what a joke that idea is! Traffic is always snarled.)

Within minutes of pulling out of the driveway, we’re in stop-and-go, 8-lane highway traffic. The radio’s on, the day’s events fill the car with sound. My teenage daughter’s cellphone rings “Singing in the Rain” — her chosen ringtone. Mine rings a techo-pop mix of notes. Lots of sound.

After about an hour, maybe two if traffic’s heavy, the highway calms down. From 8 lanes to 6, from 6 lanes to 4.

Grass gone to seed waves from the shoulder. Barbeque restaurant signs flash by. We open the thermos of coffee, continue listening to news on the radio, crunch on pretzels.

Nearing the Georgia-Alabama border, exits grow sparse.

Beyond Montgomery, the landscape starts to look like my childhood memories. Fields float by. Now and then a farmhouse beckons with warm, yellow-lit windows in the twilight. An old gas station, a barn, a fruit stand used to be here. They’re only kudzu-covered bumps in the dark now.

Stars grow overhead.

The darkness deepens as we turn onto 2-lane roads south of Troy, Alabama. My teens fall asleep as we drive. Outside the car there are no streetlights, few houses, cats on porches. Sometimes a concrete-block church breaks the darkness, its white paint glowing as the moon rises.

Finally we reach the Florida line, and the road turns south. We delve further back in time. Forests of spindly pines line the road nearly all the last hour. Wispy fog-ghosts hover over the rain-damp streets.

It could be 2007 or it could be 1967. Everything looks the same. I start to remember the beach when I was a kid — miles of white sand backed with dunes instead of condos. Pulling blue crab and huge flounder out of the Inlet just west of Panama City Beach.

Icy-cold Cokes made with real sugar instead of corn syrup. Doughnuts for breakfast (and no one worrying about the fat or sugar!)

Spending the mornings and late afternoons sprawled on an air raft in the Gulf. Waiting out the mid-day heat curled up with a book in a palm tree’s shade.

Someone else buying the groceries, cooking the meals, and doing the driving.

Sigh.

And then it’s back to 2007.

We reach the beach. A narrow ribbon of about 3 blocks lines the Gulf with house upon house upon hotel upon restaurant upon strip center. Lights, action, and thousands of cars with Atlanta tags.

Oh well. At least I can float on the Gulf’s gentle waves, close my eyes, and pretend.

A travel guide to the Southeastern United States

2008-06-30T16:11:00.001-04:00

I'm beginning a travel planning website -- an online guidebook of sorts -- at www.Sweet-Tea-Travels.com

I must be crazy.

I'm not only teaching myself FrontPage to construct the site, I'm using only my own writing and photographs. This site may occupy the rest of my life and never be "finished."

But it makes me happy, and hopefully in the long run it will provide some income and help establish me in the travel field.

Let's just hope gasoline prices don't get any higher. But, even if they do, I'd hope people would still travel. To me it's as important as breathing.